Monday 25 July 2011

Sport Climbing at Portland - Battleship Main

An early alarm call on a Sunday morning is never a good thing, but waking up to clear blue sky's made it easy to get out of bed. I headed south down a clear M3 to Tommys with a cappachino and Oasis blaring!!

We met at Tommys for 0830 and I was introduced to Phil. They have spent many hours climbing together and shared some great assents and memorable days in the mountains. The plan was to head to Portland and climb in a area called "Battleship Main". I have heard great things of this area so was really looking forward to the climbing.

We started the day of with a really nice 5+ called "The Ghost of Saturday Night" it was a nice climb and a nice one to kick start the day with. We then moved up a grade and climbed a nice 6a called "Never Drive a Car When Your Dead", I came of this route at one section but got straight back on and completed the route. Ill get it in one next time I am there.

Phil had his eye on a 7a+ called "Humanoid" so we put up a top rope and Tommy and I had a play on it as Phil warmed up. The first move was tough and apparently it didn't ease up all the way to the top. I got some work to do before I can climb a grade like that. Plenty of hours training on the indoor wall building my balance and finger strength. Phil seemed to sail up the route he then rested and lead the route which earned him the tick. It was great watching him climb.

Tommy Onsighed "Chappquiddick" a really nice 6b and I followed on top rope, it was 3rd time lucky for me as I messed up the second move twice. The persistence payed off. We then pushed the grade up again trying a route called "One for the Gipper" a 6c, Tommy lead the route and was doing really well until his foot slipped. He managed to re group, reduce the pump in his forearms and complete the route. I had a go and came of the middle section, I had 3 or 4 attempts before chucking the towel in. Another route I will complete on my return. Tommy had a second attempt on "The Gipper" and nailed it. Seemed to shoot up it second time, good work mate.

I want to start leading some routes so we found a nice slabby 4+ to practice. Phil meet me at the top and talked through the way to thread the bolts to allow a safe decent. Now I need to practice this sequence and start leading more, that way I can start to officially tick of some routes.

A great day out, The icing on the cake was going over Mums for a Roast Dinner. Mum's roasts are the best ever....


Phil on 7a+ "Humanoid"


Me Climbing "The Ghost of Saturday Night" 5+


Me Climbing "Chippaquiddick" 6b


Tommy on "The Gripper" 6c

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