The day before we had to pack our bags with the right food and equipment for the climb. This was our only time at this altitude without the benefits of supplementary oxygen and it was suggested it would be a tough one. Meals were selected with care to ensure some attempt at nutrition whilst taking into account the reality that appetites will be suppressed at this new altitude and weight had to be kept to a minimum.
Before starting the climb the prayer ritual was enjoyed by all. Juniper was burnt on the Puja altar and the sound of muted Tibetan Chanting filled the air.
When the time arrived for the climb to begin - into the Dragons Lair, the infamous Khumbu Icefall - everyone left BC by going around the Puja Altar clockwise while throwing rice 3 times with their right hands to summon good luck and safe passage. Even the most non-religious people always find themselves partaking in the ritual. You've got to take all the good JuJu you can get!
Kicking ice with crampons to get purchase on steep terrain and in the dark is very tiring work and there tends to be a lack of conversation because the pace has everyone breathing on the edge of their comfort zones. It’s essential to always concentrate, which is very hard at altitude, and to keep moving. Breaks are few and short and when the wind picks up it gets very cold! Camp 1 is made in about 5 hours which is good going.
The journey between Base Camp and Camp 2 is only 5.5km and there is a height gain of 1200m but the route is winding and tortuous and it makes for a very tiring day. Rests are well earned at the end of this stage and it did seem a little easier the second time around.
This is one nervy crossing that has to be made but everyone managed it, thankfully in both directions!
The jet stream is still an issue and continues to blast the tops of Lhotse and Everest. During both nights camped out at C2 the tents would shake violently with each descending gust. This did not making sleeping that easy.
The temperature and the buffeting squalls have been an issue at most times and it has been necessary for the team to wrap up well against the wind and cold, some of them deciding to wear their down suits around the camp.
They occasionally met friends and neighboring teams while camped out, which was quite bizarre when half way up a remote mountain, but a good chat always brings light relief although for the most part life at 6400m seemed almost normal now.
The amount of snow on the mountain influences the journey from C2 to C3 . It is harder in terms of breaking trail but easier in terms of climbing when there is snow on the Face, rather than blue ice. The extremes of weather from risking frostbite in the early morning to sweltering in the reflective heat of the sun as the day wears on also proved a challenge.
An overnight at Camp 3 at 7500m on the 2nd acclimatisation cycle is notoriously bad and people often lay awake all night battling a throbbing headache but for us it was up and then back to C2. Sleeping without oxygen at C3 is extremely hard.
Camp 3 with Lhotse Face and Everest slopes behind.
The Lhotse Face is around 800m of almost vertical ice and snow. Camp 3 is around 2/3rds the way up scratched into the side of the Face and the route to camp 4 (next time only) makes up the balance.
By Sunday everyone was back in Base Camp, waiting for their turn in the shower, clean clothes and thicker air. It was pointed out that each time you head to the next highest camp, the previous camp suddenly seems much more luxurious than before!
Some of the Sherpas have gone home to visit their families for a few days and Henry is keeping a close eye on the weather to see if there is any chance of an early season clearance. The team are ready to go as soon as the weather permits.
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