Wednesday 20 July 2011

Day 8 & 9 - Making the best of a bad situation

We were heading up on the "Aiguille du Midi" cable car. As we were passing through the ticket inspection point Victor was asked by a film crew if they could have a quick interview. The film crew questioned him on his plans and asked why, if the weather was so bad ,were we going up. Victor gave his reasons and shared his plans and then we proceeded onto the car and headed up.
As we got higher we saw the conditions worsen but thought we would give it a go, maybe the storm would pass and we could have a good day in the mountains. We got our kit on, got roped up and as we were doing so a french man gave the signal are you going to climb?...... I nodded, he placed his hands together and gave the signal of praying for us!!! It briefly made me question our choice to climb and at the same time I did have a little chuckle inside.
We made out way onto the "Midi Ridge". A snow storm was right in our faces, the visibility was low, maybe 6 or 7 meters and the ridge was like a knifes edge due to the consistent snow fall in recent days. I was the lead person and was taking very careful and deliberate steps along the ridge. Neil at one point apparently stepped off the ridge which put Victor on edge. I felt a tug on the rope and it was decided we should all go back...... I was Gutted!!!
We grabbed a coffee and gave it another hour thinking the storm may pass, but it didn't.

We headed down into the valley for some rock climbing in our crampons. A great way of training to improve foot work and placement. I would have done anything to be up in the mountains at this point but better safe than sorry. Something very special about being above the clouds something that I can't describe in words but it is truly magical.

Now "Mont Blanc" is off the schedule and probably will not be climbed until 2012.

I looked out of the window the second my eyes opened thinking today we could get up..... Nope!! Replicated weather conditions meant we were staying low. We met Victor at 0800 and he had a plan for a multi pitch climb in Italy where the weather was apparently alot better. We headed through the "Mont Blanc" tunnel to a place called "Machaby" where we saw "Mike Roberts" and "Kenton Cool" two very respected mountaineers just about to do the same multi pitch. They were maybe 30 minutes in front due to us grabbing a couple of capaccinos before we headed off.

We climbed a route called "Lo Dzerby", a 400m climb with a 5a grade. It was a really pleasant ascent with only one small tricky section. I found it straight forward but it was great to be on a multi pitch route in Italy and in the sun. The views were surreal. On completing the route we had a short picnic at the top and then took a really gentle walk back down the hill passing through some beautiful old Italian villages.

We then took a detour en route home to visit what Victor rates as one of the best Pizza houses. It's called the "Du Tunnel" in Courmayer, Italy, and was a perfect end to a good day. Nothing beats Pizza and a Beer.

The weather looks like its improving, the "Cosmiques" was poking out tonight and the cloud was clearing so fingers crossed that tomorrow we can get up in the mountains.




Bottom of lift station, para gliders are up, we are going up


Top of lift station preparing for the off.....


Back in the Valley climbing in crampons


Neil climbing in his crampons


Me Climbing


Morning.... not happy with what I saw


Victor getting kit together for multi-pitch climb


Sun shinning in Italy and off to climb


Three of us before first pitch


Routes labeled, and graded... brilliant idea!!


Me belaying Victor on 3rd or 4th pitch


Neil climbing


Victor chilling at top of 4 hour climb


Me at top of climb taking in views of Machaby


Me enjoying the Italian sun


Passing Villages on route down... beautiful buildings


"Cosmiques" Saying hello, Please let us climb tomorrow

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