Sport Climbing at Portland - Battleship Main

An early alarm call on a Sunday morning is never a good thing, but waking up to clear blue sky's made it easy to get out of bed. I headed south down a clear M3 to Tommys with a cappachino and Oasis blaring!!

We met at Tommys for 0830 and I was introduced to Phil. They have spent many hours climbing together and shared some great assents and memorable days in the mountains. The plan was to head to Portland and climb in a area called "Battleship Main". I have heard great things of this area so was really looking forward to the climbing.

We started the day of with a really nice 5+ called "The Ghost of Saturday Night" it was a nice climb and a nice one to kick start the day with. We then moved up a grade and climbed a nice 6a called "Never Drive a Car When Your Dead", I came of this route at one section but got straight back on and completed the route. Ill get it in one next time I am there.

Phil had his eye on a 7a+ called "Humanoid" so we put up a top rope and Tommy and I had a play on it as Phil warmed up. The first move was tough and apparently it didn't ease up all the way to the top. I got some work to do before I can climb a grade like that. Plenty of hours training on the indoor wall building my balance and finger strength. Phil seemed to sail up the route he then rested and lead the route which earned him the tick. It was great watching him climb.

Tommy Onsighed "Chappquiddick" a really nice 6b and I followed on top rope, it was 3rd time lucky for me as I messed up the second move twice. The persistence payed off. We then pushed the grade up again trying a route called "One for the Gipper" a 6c, Tommy lead the route and was doing really well until his foot slipped. He managed to re group, reduce the pump in his forearms and complete the route. I had a go and came of the middle section, I had 3 or 4 attempts before chucking the towel in. Another route I will complete on my return. Tommy had a second attempt on "The Gipper" and nailed it. Seemed to shoot up it second time, good work mate.

I want to start leading some routes so we found a nice slabby 4+ to practice. Phil meet me at the top and talked through the way to thread the bolts to allow a safe decent. Now I need to practice this sequence and start leading more, that way I can start to officially tick of some routes.

A great day out, The icing on the cake was going over Mums for a Roast Dinner. Mum's roasts are the best ever....

Phil on 7a+ "Humanoid"

Me Climbing "The Ghost of Saturday Night" 5+

Me Climbing "Chippaquiddick" 6b

Tommy on "The Gripper" 6c

Logistical Nightmare!

We took our transfer to the Geneva Airport, went to the check in desk and we were not on the system!!!!

We were told to go over to customer services to investigate why we could not be found. The assistant looked into our booking and we were meant to leave Geneva yesterday! How there was confusion over the dates I do not know.
BA were fully booked until tomorrow, Swiss Air wanted a fortune but Easy Jet had seats. There is however a catch with Easy Jet, all the hidden extras.
We brought our tickets for £260 each, which gave us 1 checked in bag with a 20kg limit. I had 1 bag that weighed 19.6kg but Neil unfortunately had 2 bags both with 19kg of kit in them. I don't know what he took with him but he had a big excess charge coming his way so we juggled the weight around his bags and loaded his rucksack with heavy items but he was still stung with a £250 bill. An interesting end to our trip!!
Below is a picture of the difference in luggage. Mine is the 'Large' North Face black holdall, Neil has managed to fill the yellow and grey holdalls both XL's
We were away for 10 days.... I can't wait to see what he brings to Cho Oyu (5 weeks).
You gotta smile!

Day 10 - North Face of the "Petite Aiguille Verte"

We awoke to another day of bad weather in the valley. Meeting Victor at the usual time we sat and had a coffee and he talked over the days plan. He suggested an easy route just of the "Grands Montets" cable car called the "Petite Aiguille Verte".

We headed up the cable car and the rain turned to snow which was good news. It was about minus 5 and there was a strong wind. With all the gear on we headed out onto the "Col des Grands Montets", headed up two easy snow slopes to the foot of the face. We then had to climb a snow slope for around 100m at 50/55 degrees. With around 1 to 2 feet of fresh snow this made the ascent interesting. There was then a little mixed climbing which brought us to the summit. I would like to say the views where amazing from the top but we could not see more than 50m.

The camera did not come out much as the wind and snow was coming down so badly, so not to many shots.

This was a comfortable 3/4 hour route and a nice way to finish the training course. We headed back to the valley for lunch and chilled out watching the "Tour de France".

Victor and Neil getting ready

Victor making his way up the 50 degree snow slope

Me at one of the belay points

Neil and I on route

Neil and I at the Summit - 3512m

Victor at the Summit

Me at the Summit of "Petite Aiguille Verte"

Neil on descent

Victor on the decent of snow slope

Day 8 & 9 - Making the best of a bad situation

We were heading up on the "Aiguille du Midi" cable car. As we were passing through the ticket inspection point Victor was asked by a film crew if they could have a quick interview. The film crew questioned him on his plans and asked why, if the weather was so bad ,were we going up. Victor gave his reasons and shared his plans and then we proceeded onto the car and headed up.
As we got higher we saw the conditions worsen but thought we would give it a go, maybe the storm would pass and we could have a good day in the mountains. We got our kit on, got roped up and as we were doing so a french man gave the signal are you going to climb?...... I nodded, he placed his hands together and gave the signal of praying for us!!! It briefly made me question our choice to climb and at the same time I did have a little chuckle inside.
We made out way onto the "Midi Ridge". A snow storm was right in our faces, the visibility was low, maybe 6 or 7 meters and the ridge was like a knifes edge due to the consistent snow fall in recent days. I was the lead person and was taking very careful and deliberate steps along the ridge. Neil at one point apparently stepped off the ridge which put Victor on edge. I felt a tug on the rope and it was decided we should all go back...... I was Gutted!!!
We grabbed a coffee and gave it another hour thinking the storm may pass, but it didn't.

We headed down into the valley for some rock climbing in our crampons. A great way of training to improve foot work and placement. I would have done anything to be up in the mountains at this point but better safe than sorry. Something very special about being above the clouds something that I can't describe in words but it is truly magical.

Now "Mont Blanc" is off the schedule and probably will not be climbed until 2012.

I looked out of the window the second my eyes opened thinking today we could get up..... Nope!! Replicated weather conditions meant we were staying low. We met Victor at 0800 and he had a plan for a multi pitch climb in Italy where the weather was apparently alot better. We headed through the "Mont Blanc" tunnel to a place called "Machaby" where we saw "Mike Roberts" and "Kenton Cool" two very respected mountaineers just about to do the same multi pitch. They were maybe 30 minutes in front due to us grabbing a couple of capaccinos before we headed off.

We climbed a route called "Lo Dzerby", a 400m climb with a 5a grade. It was a really pleasant ascent with only one small tricky section. I found it straight forward but it was great to be on a multi pitch route in Italy and in the sun. The views were surreal. On completing the route we had a short picnic at the top and then took a really gentle walk back down the hill passing through some beautiful old Italian villages.

We then took a detour en route home to visit what Victor rates as one of the best Pizza houses. It's called the "Du Tunnel" in Courmayer, Italy, and was a perfect end to a good day. Nothing beats Pizza and a Beer.

The weather looks like its improving, the "Cosmiques" was poking out tonight and the cloud was clearing so fingers crossed that tomorrow we can get up in the mountains.

Bottom of lift station, para gliders are up, we are going up

Top of lift station preparing for the off.....

Back in the Valley climbing in crampons

Neil climbing in his crampons

Me Climbing

Morning.... not happy with what I saw

Victor getting kit together for multi-pitch climb

Sun shinning in Italy and off to climb

Three of us before first pitch

Routes labeled, and graded... brilliant idea!!

Me belaying Victor on 3rd or 4th pitch

Neil climbing

Victor chilling at top of 4 hour climb

Me at top of climb taking in views of Machaby

Me enjoying the Italian sun

Passing Villages on route down... beautiful buildings

"Cosmiques" Saying hello, Please let us climb tomorrow

Victor Pulling the Plug!!!!

Cosmique Arete - Bad Weather Messing Up Plans.

Day 7 - Running away from Rain

Today we had a day in the valley, with the idea of getting some rock routes done. We headed out to a climbing wall in "Flame". We got geared up and unravelled the rope, set up the belay and just before we were ready to climb the heavens opened up.....
We packed up and then drove to a supper little wall that's name slips my mind, we completed a route called the "Traverse of the Gods". A route that I wish I had my camera on. After Lunch and a coffee we headed to "La Fayet". I led a few climbs placing cams and nuts as protection. This is something I want to get better at. The level of routes were 4a/b's but nice climbing. We then headed over to a level 5a which had a really challenging part on it, a slightly overhanging section which I am pleased to say I sailed through.

Neil is now finding his feet rock climbing and making good progress, he is loving it and says he is really looking forward to the challenges we face in the next year. This trip has been a great eye opener to what lies ahead.

Victor has challenged me to climbing a 7 grade in a year, I think he is mad but I'm gonna give it a go. I will try to fit in one more climbing session a week and see if I can rise to the challenge.

Tomorrow we head up the "Aiguille du Midi", 3 nights in the "Cosmiques Hut" and fingers crossed we get the opportunity to climb "Mont Blanc". If not we will be practicing crevasse rescue, climb the "Cosmiques Arete" and do some ice climbing. Either way that's 3 days in the mountains.

View From Hotel Room

Neil working on Climbing Technique

Niel on last climb of the day..... little overhang ahead!!

Niel on the over hang

Victor!!!! should of kept his top on

Me on last climb of the day with the slight overhang ahead

Me looking at the next move

Little look at the camera..... I'm not really a show off!!!!

The move through the Crux it was only a 5a

Nice climb to end a nice day and the sun started to show

Day 3 to 6 - In and around the "Col du Geant"

We have had 3 great days in the mountains. 4 Summits in 3 days and one that really sticks out. The "Dent du Geant". My first 4000m peak.

I had written a full blog entry and for some reason it just crashed out and I lost it all so short and sweet will have to do. Sorry!!!!

We climbed the "Aiguille Marbree" then camped under the "Dent de Geant". Made an early start on that and summited around 1330. Packed up camp and made our way over the glacier to spend the night in the "Torino Hut".

We made an early start to got 2 summits in,  the "Aiguille D'Entreves" and the "Aiguille du Toule" which were both really comfortable, easy mixed climbs.





Victor and I leaving the "Tonino Hut"



The Challenge ahead the "Dent du Geant"

"Giants Tooth"

Victor making ground across the Glacier

Victor looking for camp spot under the Geant

Views over towards "Cosmiques" and "Midi Plan Traverse"

Victor climbing the "Aiguille Marbree"

Niels first Alpine Summit "Aiguille Marbree"

Camp Set up under the tooth

Me enjoying being in the mountains

Neils First night Alpine Style

Victor cooking up a storm and all set for a good nights sleep

View of "Dent du Geant" from the tent

"Giants Tooth" with a Alpine Glow

Midi Plan Traverse with an amazing Alpine sun set

Full Moon

Ready for Bed!!!! But will I sleep?????

Early stert and a beautiful day on the "Dent du Geant"

Summit of the "Dent du Geant" my first 4000m Peak



Me packing wrapping rope away after 3 amazing absiels



Crossing the glacier heading for "Torino Hut"

Shadow of the victor, Neil and I

Neil and I crossing a crevase

Inside the crevase

High winds and an impressive weather system over "Mont Blanc"

Victor on climb to the Summit of the "D'Entreeves"

Nice Start to a climb of the "Aiguille du Toule"

Me at the top of the "Aiguille du Toule"

Neil and I at the top of the "Aigiulle du Toule"

Kit Room at the "Torino Hut"

Our Suite at the hut!!