Bad end to a good trip to the Ecrines

Last day on ice and decided to head to "Freissinieres". I was quitley stoked to lead my first route. I decided to second "pistoleros", before giving it a go on lead. Before I went up to tommy mentioned how brittle the icelcles where at the top of the route and said be careful. I went up the route with out much drama, just a little pump in the arms. I reached the top, and then absieled off...... the rope knocked off a icelcle on my way down that landed right on my shin, i swore a few times and then got down, cleaned it up and am now just dealing with the brusing along the shin bone that is pretty sore. I then became photographer and took loads of shoots of Tommy,Will and Dan. They got two nice lines done that I was a little gutted about not getting on.

Its been a good trip to the ecrines and i have enjoyed my time of ice. Big thanks to Dave Peggler for putting on this event.

A long drive ahead, but hopefully get back to have a nice evening with natalie, then have sunday to chill out before getting back into work and training next week.

Moster Energy Drinks and Trance will give us wings on the long drive home.

A bit of luck

Three days of big walk-ins and climbing, that has really taking it out of us. Both agreed at the bottom of the route we needed a rest day.

We sat under two routes, one called Mephisto and the other Calins Solene. On Mephisto, you could hear the water running through it so that was out of the question, which meant Calins Solene was on.
We geared up and Tommy made a start. On route he called down, "bloody hell this is steep" he pushed on whilst I was belaying, thinking what have I got coming my way?! Tommy climbed really well and ran out a 25m pitch, before securing on a tree at the top of the route. Then I was on.

I started climbing and felt ok on this route, then it steepened and I was feeling a little out of my depth, but managed to keep it together. I got to a slight ledge where I could rest, then hot aches came on. I felt like my fingers were going to fall off, it killed. I had a little talking to myself and then picked up the axes and pushed on. The next bit was even steeper, I thought I had a good axe in, but no, I was off. One axe in my hand and one still in the wall, I was hanging off the side of the ice fall. I looked up and the axe was resting on the rope, I knew that if the rope moved the axe was going to be down the mountain. The rope moved and the axe did fall, luckily not far, it got tangled in my climbing trousers!! Just has to manoeuvre myself to get it. I carried on climbing up to the belay point and met Tommy. He was buzzing from his lead of this WI 5+ and so he should be, it was a tough route and my first WI 5+, which I am chuffed with. We abseiled off, had a cuppa and headed back to the car, where we waited for 4 hours for Will and Dan to finish their route.

Awesome lead Tommy, I have a lot of respect for you leading routes like these. My time will come.

Our route to the left

Sunset in Forneal

Tommy abseiling off route

Tommy at bottom of ab

A good route ticked

Walking off the route

Another epic walk-in

Another epic walk-in this morning to the bottom of our route for the day, a 200m, 4 pitch WI4/5, called "Clair de lunule"

Even with an early start and a monster pace breaking trail in hip high snow, we still arrived at the route third!! We had a cuppa, some flap jack and geared up waiting for enough space between the climbers in front of us.

We set off and started climbing, it was a really nice, fairly easy climb, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The second pitch was long and Tommy was running out of screws, so he set up a belay, I started to climb when showers of ice started flying overhead. It seemed the group in front were re-sculpting the route, by the amout of ice falling above us. At one point a big load went overhead, if I'm honest, I thought it was an avalanche. I got close into the ice, got my head down and let the ice fly by, the sound was like astroids whizzing past my head. Tommy got smashed in the arm by a boulder, which gave him a dead arm and affected his ability to hold his axe. I climbed up to him and then beyond, up a small piece of ice then up a snow slope to a belay point, securing myself to a tree. Tommy came up, we had 1 big pitch left but his arm was bothering him. We made the decision to absiel off and maybe return tomorrow for another go.

Pizza and a cuppa seemed to fit the bill and now for earlish night. Up early for another trip to the ice.

Todays route, "Clair de lunule"

Tommy on the lead

Unknown climber, the lady that nearly killed my mate

Me on second pitch

Me approaching belay

"why did I not take up chess"

Another early morning which started with Tommy saying "Why do I do this, why didn't I take up chess." We headed straight to Cervieres, knowing we had a long walk into the crag. We approached the supposed car park, we went off road and bottomed out the car, we spent at least an hour digging it out with no joy. Scott and the others drove by and obviously seeing us with snow shuvels didn't raise any alarms. They headed to the correct car park and started to get ready. After maybe an hour and a half, Tommy and I decided to get ready and head to the crag, abandoning the car, we hoped to get a tow after a days climb...... then Scott and the others turned up and we managed to get the car out! Thank god.

Then came the walk in, Tommy and I were real men and used our legs (brawn), while the the others were on Ski's (they used their brains). We ended up taking what we thought was the right route and it took us off road and through thigh high snow for 3.5km, the boys on skis found this amusing!! A long, tough walk in, but to our credit we still beat the boys on ski's to the foot of the ice route. Tommy and I are hardcore and this was good character building and training for our adventures later this year. There was one point where Tommy said surely this would be easier to crawl.... we both gave it a go, hilarious!!

I second 2 really nice 5 grade routes today and was feeling a lot stronger on the ice. Using the front points on the crampons is getting a lot easier and my foot work is improving. I think there will be some leading tomorrow and towards the end of the week. It's all about confidence, relaxing and trusting your feet.

Scott was on a nice route that I second, he nearly gave up right at the top. He shouted, "This is bad, f!"#, I'm pumped, I'm gonna come off." After a load of encouragment he pulled through and topped out on the route. Good effort Scott.

After a nice stroll back to the car we loaded up and encouraged Will and Dan to go skin up a lovely looking piste and ski down. Will nailed the slop and Dan had 2 falls, one landing on his arse, which has given him a nice limp and something to moan about. Great effort lads and looking forward to seeing some great video footage that Tommy got.

Now for Roast chicken a glass of red, an early night and some more climbing tomorrow.

Tommy off road

Thigh high snow, hard on my little legs



Tommy Leading WI5

 

Dan



Me on top rope of WI5



Will



Scott and me on belay

Me enjoying the ice

Dan

Me getting used to the mono points

Arms pulling hard!

Close to the top

How much easier on ski's!!!

First day on Ice

A 0630 alarm call and it was time to shower, eat and get out on some ice. My first day ice climbing, the excitment was somewhat suppressed by the tiredness, the drive yesterday really took it out of me, but the sun rise this morning was amazing, it put a spring in our steps....

What a view to wake up to.

On route to the ice crag we had to deal with winding mountain roads with snow and ice on and big drop off's into the valley below. We put on the ice chains and slowly progressed to the car park at the bottom of the routes.

Tommy and I headed to "Les nains des ravines" a 300m, IV/4 climb. We had a 45min walk-in that was made a lot harder by our choice of route, through knee high snow, but good training. We geared up and Tommy lead the way and I second his route. This was my first time on ice and I really enjoyed the challenges it presented. An easy-ish route but it got me practicing axe placement and foot work. On steeper routes these two techniques are essential. It was great to experience my first abseil off a abalakov too.

At one stage of the climb, I went to take some pictures and out of my case fell my spare battery, already commited to the route we had complete it, before having a look for the battery. It was like looking for a needle in a hay stack but I found it. Result!!

Tomorrow maybe some steeper routes and Tommy wants me leading!!!





The Route - "Les nains des ravines"

 

Tommy and I on walk out

Tommy leading route

Tommy making good progress

Me on ice



Enjoying the challenge of ice climbing

A long & windy road, to the alps.

19:30 we departed for Folkestone, to get the 22:20 tunnel crossing to Calais. In front of us a 14hr drive to Vellouse.

Mum had prepared a monster hamper of home made bannana cake, current cakes, chocolate and everything that could possibly make me fat!!
Must admit it came in very handy and Natalie's contribution of lucozade, haribo and satsumas meant getting out the car on arrival I felt 2 stone heavier.
Cheers girls x

The drive was a killer and just when we thought we had 45mins left, a road was closed that meant a diversion and a extra 30 mins in the car. The views were stunning over the alps.
On arrival at Vellouse, a very small, quiet town, welcomed us. The chalet is awesome and good bunch of people sharing it.

Tommy and I on route

Vellouse, beautiful town
Photo by Tommy Harris

A good night sleep is in order and hopefully awake feeling fresh to climb tomorrow.

Route to the top of the world

The count down begins to my departure at the end of March. I will be following in the footsteps of some mountaineering legends and making the famous slog to the top of the world. Notebly not the toughest mountain in the world but the heighest. With the height comes the challenge with altitude a battle with mind and body to keep pushing to the summit and not giving in.

I thought I would post a image of the route so you can visulise the camps and journey that is in front of me.

The route from the south side.

Focus turns to EVEREST

I had a fantastic Christmas and New Year,  now the focus turns to Everest.

Within 3 months I will be heading out to Kathmandu and making my way to Everest base camp, before making the famous pilgrimage to the Summit. Both nerves and excitement fills my veins and its time to channel these emotions and put them to good use.

The training for such a slog at such altitude means I need to get physically fit and mentally strong.

I met up with Henry Todd on Sunday and he invited some climbers that have summated in previous years and some that will be joining me this year. All I can say is the effect Everest and the summit has had on these individuals’ only leaves me to believe I will be visiting a very special place and experiencing something very unique.

The preparations for the charity ball are going well and its looking like the DO SUMMIT GOOD CHARITY BALL will be a fantastic evening and fingers crossed will take me closer to crossing £100,000 for my two charities.

If you would like info on the ball please do drop me an email- pjkeleher@googlemail.com

A Magical Place