Tuesday, 21 June 2011

Tuesday Night at Craggy Island Guildford

Tuesdays have become a night where I meet up with Tommy at Craggys and climb for between 3-4 hours. My climbing is steadily improving and I am starting to get to grips with my body positioning on the wall. I have started to climb and complete 6a's on the fixed rope and seconding on quick draw. I also managed to complete a 6a in the bouldering cave which I was quite chuffed about.
My next step will be to start leading routes and this I hope to do in the next few weeks.

After a mixture of top rope/seconding Tommy and bouldering its become a habit to do some grip and arm strength training. This Tommy gets great pleasure from, watching me suffer as my fingers nearly rip out of there sockets!!!!!
After completing the little training regime that we have been doing the last few weeks Tommy thought it would be fun to introduce me to "mono holds" (a single finger hold) and complete pull ups..... Wow!!!

Boys being boys the games then started. We completed a series of different grips and holds performing pull ups, all of which Tommy out did me on and he had great pleasure in watching me suffer!

Below are a few pictures of me in action!!!!


"Mono Hold Pull Ups"


In Motion



Completed 3 sets of 5

Pinch Pull Ups - 3 sets of 5


Pull Up onto Overhand Grab - Below


Tough Session!!!!

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Successful Training Trip - Chamonix

Reflecting on my trip to Chamonix it was a massive success. Raising the bar on my rock climbing to a 5c grade, summiting "Cosmiques ArĂȘte" and the "Pointes Lachenal", all in all an amazing 3 days.

I am really happy with the way the trip went and my achievements. I owe alot to Tommy for giving me his time and support in sorting out this trip and for letting me climb with him throughout the week in preparation for it.  All the prep really helped with my success on the routes.

I feel I have absorbed plenty of great information, habits and techniques from Tommy that will help with my preparations with Everest. It has definitely laid sound foundations in confidence and understanding of which the training in July can build on.

Being exposed to the mountains has grown on me and I actually started to feel quite comfortable out there. Although having said that the weather conditions were very good and I guarantee I would not be so confident as that cloud rises and the weather changes.

"Tommy you are a top man and I look forward to spending many more days in the mountains with you. I'll push my limits higher and hopefully I can raise the bar and climb some routes with you that you have never ventured up. It will take time, maybe years but I'm sure there will be a route one day in the future that will entice us both".

I have a big selection of photos from the 3 day trip all of which I will remember and treasure - my first alpine climbing experience.

Below is a selection of the best.



Midi Ridge

Tommy on Route Down to Glacier


Pee Break


My Suunto Core Working Nicely


On the move across the glacier


Tommy making his way up the Cosmiques


Tommy Abseiling Through Chimmney


Mountaineers on the move through Glacier


Tommy pushing on to Summit








Tommy - Classic Cosmique Photo


Tommy at the Crux



Tommy and I after the completion of the "Cosmiques Arete"

Tommy and I at the Summit of the Lachanel


Just a very cool picture


Kat abseiling off the Summit of Lachanel



Me Prior to abseil off Summit

Tommy making way up "Midi Ridge" as weather turns


Weather changing over "Midi Ridge"

Jelly Babies - Victory Sweets after a tough day in the mountains

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Back up High - Traverse of the "Pointes Lachenal" (3613m)

Tommy's friends sister Kat joined us for today's trip. Kat is located out here in Chamonix.
0630 meet at the hotel and we got to the "Aiguilee Du Midi" station for the first cable back up the mountain.

Walking onto the midi ridge was a little less nerve racking than yesterday, making good time we pushed across the "Valle Blanche" to the foot of the "Pointe Lachenal". The glacier was hot, sun blazing and working up a serious sweat.
On route Tommy bumped into Sandy Alen a Mountaineering Guru, Sandy was Tommys guide on his first trip to the Alps. I think it made his day seeing him.

At the foot of the "Pointe Lachenal" we hydrated and then made the ascent to Point 1, we then traversed across the ridge and stepped onto the top of Point 2/ I took a  few pictures as the view from here over the east face of the "Mont Blanc Du Tacul" were breath taking.

Moving along the ridge we had an abseil and then a traverse to Point 3. Looking at the time, we made the decision to descend down the snow slope to just under Point 3. A 65-70 degree face and it was time to dig those crampons in and use the ice axe. It was an exposed face that definitely made me feel a little nervous. Only after taking many steps did I start to find my feet.

Again due to the time we had to push on and make good ground back across the glacier in the blazing mid day sun. Then the ascent of the "Midi Ridge" a tough climb and I will admit that my calves were pumping although not as hard as my heart..... must bring a monitor next time.

Another great day in the mountains and  it was a pleasure climbing with Tommy and Kat.

Big Thanks again to Tommy, the 3 day trip and introduction to Alpine Climbing will be a trip I will never forget.

Resting on "Midi Ridge"

Me Moving Up to Summit


Me at the Summit of "Points Lachenal" - 3613m





Kat at Summit of "Pointes Lachenal"


Tommy, Kat and I at Summit


Kat Moving Along Ridge





Me Absieling off Summit Ridge


Kat Descending Down Snow Face to Glacier

Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Cosmiques Arete (3842m) - First Alpine Route

We took the 0830 cable cart to the "Aiguille du Midi" got our gear sorted, cross checks done and it was time to walk through the ice tunnel and take my first steps onto the "Midi Ridge". First impressions blew me away, the views over the "Vallee Blanche" were spectacular. Legs a little unsteady on the meter wide ridge and it took a few minutes for me to find my feet. As I started to gain confidence I could look up and enjoy further this amazing setting. The sun on our backs it was not long before we were stripping off the layers, it was perfect weather for this route.
Working at altitude for the first time was interesting, any incline in terrain and the heart rate would rise and you could feel your head starting to pump, now I understand why Tommy kept saying slow and steady. Controlling your H/R is the name of the game.
There are 2 abseils on this route and both where amazing, hanging off the side of the mountain, the feeling I can't explain.
The Crux (the hardest point of the climb) was an interesting section where your hands follow a small hairline crack in the wall while digging those crampons into the face at the same time. Pushing on we had further challenging moves and then it was the summit. Tommy went up first and then we were there ... the route was complete.
The feeling was amazing.

It was great climbing in the mountains with Tommy, a guy I respect and trust and have learnt so much from. I can only hope there are many more alpine trips in the future.



First Steps onto the "Midi Ridge"


Rest before the start of the "Cosmiques Arete"


Moving up the slopes to the Ridge


Tommy "My private tour guide"


Traversing the First Tower


Taking in the Views


Coming of the Fist Abseil

The Classic Cosmiques Photo

The Crux


Moving up the final chimney towards the Summit


The Summit - 3842m


Climbing Exit Ladder to the Lift Station


Am looking forward to the first cable cart up the mountain tomorrow and hopefully if the weather predictions stay the same a bash at the "Traverse of the Pointes Lachenal".