DO SUMMIT GOOD: 2011

Sunday, 25 December 2011

Reflecting on 2011

Its Christmas Day and I had the morning to reflect on the last 7 months. Entering a climbing world that has blown my mind, the variety of climbing styles and inensities that has really got me hooked.

I would like to thank Tommy Harris for his ongoing support and encouragment into exsposing me to as much as possible to get me ready for my attempt at Everest in 2012. Also in Tommy I have found a life long climbing partner and friend. I would also like to thank all my sponsors that have supported me to make next year possible. Last but not least my family and girlfriend, next year is a big year and I will need you more than ever.

Below is a selection of photos that sum up the last 7 months and my entrance into this climbing world.

One of my first routes

Enjoying a day on the Jurassic Coast

First steps into a Alpine World - Midi Rigde

First Bivvy at the foot of the Forbes Arete, epic route

Another Sunday climbing on the Jurrasic Coast

Me and my good friend and great guide, Victor Saunders

Coiling at the foot of the Dent de Geant

Summit of the Dent de Geant

Onsight of my first 6a

Decending Ice cliff on Cho Oyu

at 7,600m

me with Cho Oyu in the background, the mountain that defeated me.....

Chilling out on a sunny Sunday

Training for Ice Fest begins

In training........ first time on the tools

Highlight, Summit of the "Cosmiques Arete" first summit

Sunday, 18 December 2011

Unfinished Business

Tommy and I returned to the Jurassic Coast to finish what we started last week and this time we weren't going to be defeated, or were we??

During the walk-in through a field, Tommy took a slip and I've never seen a set of legs move so fast to regain balance, like something out of a Tom and Jerry cartoon. I laughed so hard I nearly cried.

After a few traverses as warm up, it was time to face the music and dance. Back on the wall that hurt us so much last week, both physically and mentally, we got to work. Tommy nearly cracked it on his first attempt and this motivated me to follow in his footsteps. We spent all morning working the route, on a couple of occasions due to rock split we had to change the paths of our movements, in some cases making the route easier and others making it impossible. Not too many falls this week, although Tommy took a big one ending up with his axe hooked in the crash mat 6 inches from his head - check out the video evidence!

We both completed the route, although we didn't finish where we thought we would, but it was still an awesome tick that would be interesting to see others try.

Tommy and I will hopefully be out training on the tools prior to 'Ice Fest' in Jan 2012! Hopefully we can find more challenging routes on more stable rock.

Today was a great opportunity to get some footage and Tommy is hard at work putting together a masterpiece of a climbing vid. I'll upload ASAP.

Tommy representing DO SUMMIT GOOD

The Wall

Tommy looking at the route

Tommy on his athletes diet!!!!

Working the tools

Sunday, 11 December 2011

Crash, Bang, Wallop

A gloomy Sunday, but Tommy and I were desperate to get out and climb. With the weather predicted to close in at 1030 we got our tools out and decided to find a cave on the south coast and train for January's trip to the Ice.
It was my first time using axes on rock, an interesting experience to say the least. There never seems to be a positive hold to work off. We traversed a few sections of the cave and I started to get to grips with hanging and body positions. Tommy was eyeing up an interesting wall to attempt a treverse of..... it looked clean with nothing to get the axes into. We had a play and started to put a sequence together. On some of the holds the axes were hanging on by 2mm!!!

We had a early lunch, and a cup of tea. An awesome escallope bagette made from Saturday nights leftovers. I was ready to work the wall.

I had a go, got a couple of moves and came off.... I attempted again and check out the fall!!

We continued to mess around, I had 2 decent falls and Tommy had 1, but it was a good one .

We retired, headed to a tea room in Wareham and grabed a coffee and some cakes as Tommy I are both on the 'See Food Diet', we see it we eat it!

It was great to get out on the tools and make the most of a bad day weather wise. Got some awesome pictures and I kind of have a little idea of whats coming in January. Ecxiting times on the ice.

I'm feeling the falls now I'm home and writing this blog. It will be interesting tomorrow, arnika and rest are needed.

A moody Dorset coast line

Tommy ready for business

Its show time!!!

Tommy on the fragile face

Me enjoying the challenge of working with axes

Tommy moving nicely across the wall

On the move

Trust and Belief the hold is good.... Mmmm

Tommy working the wall

Warming up - a nice traverse to get used to the tools

Me on the training wall

Very close to taking the camera out!!

Secret Location

What we were working with...... maybe 2mm of contact

Crash, Bang, Wallop.......

Friday, 9 December 2011

The human icicles: Climbers tackle the world's hardest climb

This is the chilling moment two daredevils scale a 450ft waterfall covered in dangling icicles while upside down.
Will Gadd, 44, and Tim Emmett, 37, spent two weeks meticulously plotting their ascent of the notoriously tricky Helmcken Falls in Canada - ominously dubbed the world's hardest climb.
They had to battle deadly ice spray - which could freeze them to death in minutes - temperatures as low as minus 25C and the knowledge that one mistake would send them plunging into a 100ft deep ice hole below.

After four hours of constant, problem-free climbing the pair successfully reached the summit to become the world's first to conquer the falls.
Mr Gadd said they had to use sheer brute force to overcome the tricky 20ft icicles dangling from the overhanging walls.
He said: 'It's like doing hundreds of pull-ups on icicles to get to the top. By the end I'm not sure if we or the waterfall won.
'There was so much to deal with - getting covered in spray and turned into human popsicles, the huge icicles, the cold - the list is endless.
'The overhang behind the actual waterfall is extreme and means you are often climbing almost horizontally - it is like climbing along the underside of a

At over 450ft, the falls in Wells Grey Provincial Park, Canada, is one of the fiercest in the world - continuing to flow even in the depths of winter when temperatures dip well below freezing.
Its unique combination of challenges makes it one of the most difficult - and spectacular - climbs in the world.
Tim Emmett, from London, said: 'There's always debate about the true hardest climb in the world but I think all climbers would agree this is easily the most difficult.
'As you can imagine, we took our time and enjoyed the view once at the top - I think we had earned it.'
Mr Gadd added: 'There is literally no other ice in the world that is as difficult as this to climb.

'The spray ice also appears to create a cone that surrounds the water as it is in mid-air falling into the plunge pool. Over time this grows to be more than 100ft in height.

'It is quite frightening to think about what would have happened had we fallen in. It would be like plummeting into lava - you simply wouldn't be likely to live.'

Thursday, 24 November 2011

Eastern Grit

With a weekend planned in the Peak District and the forecast looking good we were set for a good few days of climbing some eastern grit. Friday night traffic was not a problem and we got to "hardhurst" camp site in good time. We pitched up the tent and headed to the pub. With it being to late for food orders we called out for a Chinese which was was delivered to the pub. Tubby tommys eyes where bigger than his belly, he moaned about not having a full portion of rice to himself so we gave him one, he barely touch it.
Good to see him laying of the carbs tho!!

Phil was psyched for climbing and woke us up at 7am. It was a foggy start to the day, we sorted kit, had a brew and headed to the cafe for breakfast. Once feed and watered the fog had burnt off and it was perfect conditions for climbing.

We headed to "Stanage", I paired up with Phil. I seconded 6 really nice routes and felt I was climbing really well with my Strength and confidence back.

Heather wall VS 4c
Rug os ity crack HVS 5b
Prudence hVS 5b
The tippler E1 5b
Queersville HVS 5a
Via media VS 4c

The banter on the crag was awesome a good bunch climbing, Tommy does seem to be at the end of most of it.... Normally from me! But he does tee it up.
10 of us were climbing in total, most of which will be attempting Denali in 2012. Good luck to them all and there preparations.

Saturday night we were back in the pub. After dinner the yaga bombs where flowing as well as the cider! Tommy was complaining on shot No 3 that his face was numb!!

Sunday was another foggy day, it didn't lift tho. We headed to "froggatt". It was cold and Phil and I got to work. 3rd route of the day being the funniest. Phil leading a route called "three pebble slab" he got half way up and paused. The next reach completely messed with his head and he could not move to progress. 30mins later I'm still belaying and he has gone no where.....

He looks down at me and said we need to get someone to lower a rope. Phil needed rescuing!! Nick and Tommy set up a ab rope and helped Phil off the route. Phil was not the same man after that!!! Being rescued of a HVS does nothing for the ego. Tommy then had a go and froze one move above. Put of buy a passer buy telling him the scary move is higher up.
Nick and I then flew up it on top rope. I don't see what the problem was!!!! Apart from getting your head around no gear and dealing with a possible 15ft fall!!!

I lead my first trad route. Placing gear is a art as gear selection is so important. I need plenty more practice and hopefully be leading tougher routes in the near future.

A great weekend with a good group of people and great climbing, im really looking forward to climbing there again in the future.
The weekend was topped of nicely with an amazing roast dinner and watching Armageddon, what a great movie!!!