Tommy fully focussed on a problem called 'declassified', a V7 that has caused him hours of thinking and visualising since his last attempt 2 days ago. A day of rest in between, surely means he can crack this route today.
After a warm up on an easy problem and completing a few easy V1/2s, we head over and set up camp beneath 'declassified'. Tommy gives me the beta and I'm all fired up to have a go. First attempt, I set hands on hold and pull, but I can't get my arse off the floor!!! Mmm....
I go again, this time finding a more balanced start position. I pull harder and feel a shooting pain from my finger to my elbow!!!! Oh shit a tendon.
I massage relentlessly and the pain subsided. I manage to carry on, only problem is I feel I can not commit to the left hold. This problem is tough.
Tommy jumps on and shows me how it's done. First move, then a heal hock, slap right hand to good hold, slap left and compress, sort out feet, left hand up and follow with right!!!! This guy's got this ..... Nope tommy off. I thought to myself, 'this route is amazing, no wonder it's been called 'declassified'. It takes every bit of energy out of you and going over the lip will take skin and draw blood, as Tommy experienced first hand!
Tommy tried and tried, but to no avail. I believe he's going back this Friday to try and put this problem to bed.
Tommy being beaten up, we headed to harmagedon V4, a problem I tried 3/4 months ago. I had plenty of fun, but again the sequence and intensity of this project was getting the better of me.
A great day at Portland, but I need to get stronger.
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