The Jet stream is still right over Everest and the heavy winds up high are still kicking off rocks that roll down the Lhotse Face, threatening the climbers and sherpas. Although the situation is improving it is possible a new route on Lhotse is required along with an improving weather forecast.
At a base camp meeting yesterday the major commercial operators all decided that until the 'bonding power' of new snow has taken affect on loose rock, it is unsafe to fix ropes to the South Col and to the summit. Climbing high on Chomolungma is currently on hold. Fortunately, the current forecast has quite a lot of snow predicted and in this case we are really hoping it is true. We could definitely do with some of the snow that has fallen recently on Manaslu in Western Nepal.
Possible Rerouting
Eric Simonson of IMG has posted an update that is very encouraging about the route up the Lhotse Face including a map showing a potential new route.
People have been considering an alternate route to Camp 3, to the right of the climbers' usual route. They rejoined the route near lower Camp 3 and said the snow ramps were good climbing, and there was less rock fall. However, there is still reported rock fall up in the Camp 3 area, so they are staying off the Face until the winds die down.
A possible New Route
The normal route up the Lhotse Face starts after a 1.5 – 2 hour easy (at 21,000′!!) walk from Camp 2. The terrain is somewhat smooth with a few crevasses but marked with wands. people usually cross in the dark early morning hours using headlamps.
Once at the base of the Face, it takes on an entirely new personality starting with a steep short climb, clipped into the fixed ropes, to a short flat section that then takes off – until you reach Camp 3. The first section is unforgiving steep and gains altitude fast as a result. I believe this is the section currently subject to the rock fall. There are several rock bands crossing the Lhotse Face just above this section that may be shedding rocks during the extreme winds and dry conditions.
After this first section, the route continues basically straight up with a couple of flattish sections where you take breaks safely – but still clipped in until you reach the lowest of several Camp 3 spots.
So, as I understand it, the alternate route goes to the far right of the current route and follows a few ramps to gain the altitude. It is unclear to me how you gain access to the new route because that lower area at the base is heavily crevassed; but I am sure it must be possible. This new route may be a bit longer but could be faster since that first section really takes it out of you early on. Time will tell.
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