Thursday, 24 November 2011

Eastern Grit

With a weekend planned in the Peak District and the forecast looking good we were set for a good few days of climbing some eastern grit. Friday night traffic was not a problem and we got to "hardhurst" camp site in good time. We pitched up the tent and headed to the pub. With it being to late for food orders we called out for a Chinese which was was delivered to the pub. Tubby tommys eyes where bigger than his belly, he  moaned about not having  a full portion of rice to himself so we gave him one, he barely touch it.
Good to see him laying of the carbs tho!!

Phil was psyched for climbing and woke us up at 7am. It was a foggy start to the day, we sorted  kit, had a brew and headed to the cafe for breakfast. Once feed and watered the fog had burnt off and it was perfect conditions for climbing.

We headed to "Stanage", I paired up with Phil. I seconded 6 really nice routes and felt I was climbing really well with my Strength and confidence back.

Heather wall VS 4c
Rug os ity crack HVS 5b
Prudence hVS 5b
The tippler E1 5b
Queersville HVS 5a
Via media VS 4c

The banter on the crag was awesome a good bunch climbing, Tommy does seem to be at the end of most of it.... Normally from me! But he does tee it up.
10 of us were climbing in total, most of which will be attempting Denali in 2012. Good luck to them all and there preparations.

Saturday night we were back in the pub. After  dinner the yaga bombs where flowing as well as the cider! Tommy was complaining on shot No 3 that his face was numb!!

Sunday was another foggy day,  it didn't lift tho. We headed to "froggatt". It was cold and Phil and I got to work. 3rd route of the day being the funniest. Phil leading a route called "three pebble slab"  he got half way up and paused. The next reach completely messed with his head and he could not move to progress. 30mins  later I'm still belaying and he has gone no where.....

He looks down at me and said we need to get someone to lower a rope. Phil needed rescuing!! Nick and Tommy set up a ab rope and helped Phil off the route. Phil was not the same man after that!!! Being rescued of a HVS does nothing for the ego. Tommy then had a go and froze one move above. Put of buy a passer buy telling him the scary move is higher up.
Nick and I then flew up it on top rope. I don't see what the problem was!!!! Apart from getting your head around no gear and dealing with a possible 15ft fall!!!

I lead my first trad route. Placing gear is a art as gear selection is so important. I need plenty more practice and hopefully be leading tougher routes in the near future.

A great weekend with a good group of people and great climbing, im really looking forward to climbing there again in the future.
The weekend was topped of nicely with an amazing roast dinner and watching Armageddon, what a great movie!!!



Moody Start
Taken by Tommy Harris

Phil on "Tippler" E1 5b
Taken by Tommy Harris

Phil on "Tippler" E1 5b
Taken by Tommy Harris

Scott on Bold "Ratbag" E2 5b
Taken by Tommy Harris

Will on "Motorcade" E1 5a
Taken by Tommy Harris

Me Leading "Heaver Wall"
Taken by Tommy Harris

Me Leading "Heaver Wall"
Taken by Tommy Harris

Me Leading "Heaver Wall"
Taken by Tommy Harris



Charlie looking stuck on "Todys Wall" HVS 5a
Taken by Tommy Harris


Tommy on "Strapoiombante" E1 5b

Phil on "Tippler" E1 5b (Amazing Backdrop)
Taken by Tommy Harris

Me seconding on "Tippler" E1 5b
Taken by Tommy Harris

Me off
Taken by Tommy Harris

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