New Toys in the Post

With winter on the doorstep and the ice climbing season in front of us it was time to purchase some new toys. Ice axes, Quick draw and a new helmet are all on there way. Im really looking forward to the temperture dropping so we can on the ice. The plan is to train and prepare for a trip to Norway in January. Bring on the winter.

Black Diamond Vipers

New Toys



DMM Spectre Quickdraw



Grivel Salamader Helmet



Gilimot ledge - Swanage, Lost and Found

Starbucks and a "rise and shine" muffin started a Sunday morning off perfectly. The M3 was quite and the drive to Tommys was an easy one with the skies getting clearer and clearer the further south I got.

I was suprised tommy was actually out climbing this weekend as all week his status on facebook has changed from, Im fed up of my finger, Im fed up of this cold, my knee, my head and on.... and on.... and on, Tommy is getting a "wee little winger" in his old age. Sorry mate it had to come up!! hehe

It was a good turn out 7 of us headed down to Gilimot Ledge in Swanage for a day of trad climbing. With clear skis and a November nip in the air it was a perfect day for climbing.

Tommy and I did two really nice routes, "Ledgend" (HS 4a) and "Tensor Two" (VS 5a). First route was great until the last bit of gear, I was trying to get it loose with a dislodging tool and I dropped it!! yep, butter fingers dropped the tool.... I didnt even manage to get the gear out. I went down to try find the tool and yes, I found it, Result.

The second route was a fun one, this route had some great moves in it and again the gear had me, struggling to realese a cam whilst holding a under cup, I faffed around for over 5 minutes and had the biggest burn in my forearms ever. I didnt come off or give up and completed the route. Ill admit, I was close to chucking the towel in, when Tommy called me a girl!!

Lunch was followed by a treverse of a small wall and a bit of messing around. It was great to be out and back on natural rock and climbing with a bunch of great people.

Tommy, Paul, Phil, Alan, Andre and James it was a pleasure.

Tommy leading "Ledgend" (VS 5a)



"Chunk" tucking into cake, he wonders why he has no six pack!



Tommy on a absail

Me climbing second pitch on "Tensor II" (VS 5a)

Phil reflecting

..

A perfect day in the eyes of me

Wrapping up after a good days climbing

Welcome to the gun show, surely you cant get them eating cake!

Amazing British coast line

Concentrated Power of Will

Back to Basics

Hit the climbing wall last night and felt I was right back to square one. My fore arms where blowing up after no time at all and felt I had no finger strength. So it's back to the finger board and some serious strength training and spend some hours on the wall and build up my stamina.
Apart from being weak it was great to hock up with Tommy and share some stories of my time in the mountains. Tommy having pulled a tendon and me being weak resulted in a early night and popping to grab a pizza and beer.

Grabbed a new pair of climbing shoes that where well needed as my present shoe had holes on the big toe which challenged the grip on offer from the shoe. I ended up with a pair of La sportiva katana's a more advanced shoe to what I was climbing in, which will hopefully assist me in climbing a little harder.

Back to strength training is crippling me. The joys of muscle fatigue!! i can't sit on the toilet....
"Train hard or go home" is a moto I keep thinking about.

Time to Reflect

The second we entered China communication was difficult, so apologies for limited personal updates on the expedition so far. It was an amazing trip, and reflecting back provided some invaluable lessons that I will take forward.

Advanced Base Camp (ABC) welcomed us with great facilities that made the stay in the mountains a little more comfortable. Dendi, the Sherpa Chef, always cooked up a storm morning, afternoon and night - which powered us for daily Himalayan slogs, up and down the mountains.

It was a great pleasure to experience a Puja, a Nepalese ceremony, that takes place before stepping foot on the mountain. It was great to share this experience with the Sherpas and also to experience drinking alcohol at high altitudes!

Moving up the mountain, the walk between ABC and Camp 1, the scree slope, became the bane of our lives. A rubble covered slope which seemed like we were always taking one step up and sliding two steps down! And it was always in my mind that I may have to attempt this slope around 6 times during my stay.

Being in the Himalayas during an earthquake was quite an experience too. Such a vulnerable environment, made even more dangerous by random avalanches. Thoughts were always with the climbers high in the mountain during this time.

The acclimatisation process was a complete success and all members of the team were fully acclimatised for a summit push, providing the mountain would present itself. It was a waiting game, seeing out storms, and when we got the nod it was a amazing feeling. Being turned around at camp 1 due to bad weather was a massive blow, then given the chance for a second attempt and being turned at Camp 3 was a real knock - but an invaluable lesson! The mountain is always in control and must be respected.

7,500 metres was our high point and I personally felt really strong pushing up the mountain. I've been told by the guides that this is a great position to be in, in respect to the preparation for Everest in 2012. The lessons learnt and experience gained have laid solid foundations and I now feel confident that a crack at the tallest mountain in the world is within my grasp…

6 months of prep and continued dedication is all that stands between me and this life changing challenge!

Pull ups at 6,000m - On acclimatisation walk from Chinese Base Camp

Himalayan Slogging

Pushing to Camp 2 - Early Morning

Oxygen Training

Me at Hight Point - 7500m

Just before being told we we're going down

Back at Camp 2 after being turned around

Lovin the Mountains

Hand Wrapping the Ice Cliff

Keeping warm

How you doin??

Life above the clouds, love it

Himalayan Sunset

Surrounding Peak and Local Yak

Me and Cho Oyu with a Glow

View from my tent

Amazing looking Peak

On the way up........

Advanced base camp

Sherpas on Ridge

The Team

Some communication at last.

Paul has just called home using a Satellite Phone and we have enjoyed a long awaited update.

He is now very well although it took him over 10 days to clear up the stomach bug he picked up in the early days. He is feeling strong and the last climb he made from Camp 1, up to Camp 2 and slightly beyond, was comfortable so he is quietly confident that he can make the top.

Tomorrow, providing the weather stays good they will begin the final push and if all goes to plan he should reach the summit in 3 days time. It then takes 2 days to return to BC and from here he will packup his gear for the last time and start the trek for home. He anticipates that he could be back in England on the 2nd October, some 4 days ahead of schedule.

He has promised to make another call, either from the summit or when he returns to BC so when he does I will post another update on his behalf. In the meantime it is necessary to follow the Adventure Consultants link to monitor the expeditions progress.

Thanks for following this blog.

Team are Safe and Well

You may have seen in the news that there was an earthquake in East Nepal yesterday evening.

You will see through the Adventure Consultants blog that Paul and the team are safe and well, despite feeling the quake from their camp.

Keep checking the blog here.